Saturday, June 11, 2011

Introductions: Merhaba Istanbul

Istanbul, or Constantinople as it was known in antiquity, is an excellent introduction to Turkey itself. It is not just a city, but a way of life, a true melting pot between the east and west, one with many beginnings, and one that has fascinated us all for a long time.

It is not easy to describe Istanbul, one because of its diversity, two because of its size. Istanbul is the 3rd largest city on earth, stretching across 2 continents. It is the only one to spread across 2 continents, with a coastline around Black Sea, and the Sea of Marmara. The mighty Bosphorus flows through the center of Istanbul, cutting the city between Asia and Europe.

Istanbul has always been an important trade centre right from the roman ages till today. It then had a great location advantage, and formed a significant part of the trade route between Europe and Asia. Its bazaars were always filled with traditional produce of the region that Turkish merchants also exported to far off western lands like Venice. Today it attracts a high number of tourists from across the globe that come to see the land of Troy. Though Istanbul has managed to build a highly modern city today, legacy of its cultural heritage continues to shine in many parts of the old town.

One such site is Sultanahmet on the European side of the city. It is home to the great Topkapi palace, the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar. Topkapi palace is a huge complex of grand buildings standing in its shining glory overlooking the Bosphorous. A trip to Istanbul without visiting here is incomplete. Built by Sultan Mehmet II in 1466, it took 12 years to complete. It stood at the heart of mighty Ottoman Empire for more than 400 years. Its complex is made up of various kiosks, gardens and areas spread over the tip of the historical peninsula at the entry of the Golden Horn.


Istanbul has some of the most mystical mosques of our time, with rising minarets, vivacious colors, and the most amazing mix of architecture. Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofia), which is now converted into a museum, was originally built as a basilica, and later converted by Sultan Mehmet into a mosque in 1453 AD. An architectural master-piece, this monument leaves most visitors awe-struck with its dual layers of co-existence of Islam and Christianity.


Another work of art just across the pavement is the famous Blue Mosque. Built with bright blue tiles lining its roof top, the mosque is one of the highlights of Istanbul's skyline.









Istanbul is popular for its shopping escapades as well. Grand Bazaar is one such retreat, known to be among the largest enclosed shopping arenas with some 5000 shops eagerly waiting to make their pitch. You can look forward to wine goblets, jewellery, traditional Turkish tea-sets, and numerous other souvenirs to take back. But the piece-de-resistance would be traditional Turkish carpets. These can cost anywhere between USD 100 to 250,000. It is another thought though that purchasing the latter may make the buyer contemplate if he really wants to lay this on the floor.



What do you do once you are done with shopping, yes, you eat. Istanbul is a paradise of sorts for food lovers. Though the palate here is mainly filled with traditional Ottoman and Mediterranean cuisines, there is a significant influence of European food habits as well. People love to eat, and also talk about it. The food here is so interesting and diverse that a single piece of text may not suffice. Though some of the must try items for me would be the Raki, Ayran, Kebaps, Lahmachun, Baklava, Turkish Delights, Cay (tea), and in that order (yes, this is what one meal can comprise of).


Although Turkey is an Islamic land, drinking alcohol is almost routine, except for the holy month of Ramadan. Raki is a local alcoholic beverage that goes well with fish or kebaps, and even with musk-melons. But be careful before you dive in as it can be quite strong. An after meal desert is the popular Turkish Delight, or Lokum as it is locally called. This is made in many flavors and simply melts in your mouth. It is believed to be a digestive, and aphrodisiac for some. It makes a great shopping item as a present to carry back for your loved ones.


Iskender kebap is named after chef Iskender from the traditional city of Bursa. He invented the process of roasting meat on a vertical grill (which is followed world over today), cut-off thin slices of it and served it with bread and a generous dose of melting butter on top.




There is a lot more to see and do in Istanbul, be it simply putting your feet up and indulging in a game of backgammon while sipping tea and smoking a narghile (hookah) at one of the outdoor cafes of Taksim, or taking a horse carriage ride at Buyukada (Princes Island). You can visit the Galata towers for a panoramic view of the city, or simply stand at the bridge below and watch fishermen engage their catch, as they have been doing from centuries. An evening cruise on the Bosphorus along with a traditional sufi dance can be a perfect end to a busy day of sight-seeing.



If this too doesn’t satisfy you, how about taking a trip to nearby Izmir for some beach resorts, or to Bursa to savor the traditional Kebap, or skiing at Mount Uludag (the mountain where Gods sat and watched the Trojan war unfold on the east coast of Aegean).

Visiting Turkey may seem to be a great lesson in history and geography of the world, but it is the sheer divinity of its culture that will grip you and make you want to keep coming back. A land which is at the moment caught between the east and the west, the old and the new, one which is eager to move towards the western way of lifestyle, but the inertia of whose past is so glorious that it will only be a shame if it happens. Till that happens, the enigma of this unique place should be enjoyed and cherished.


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Notes:

I was in Istanbul for 3 months between November and March 2009-10. I was consulting for Unilever Turkey, during which time I made quite a few friends there.

2 comments:

Arun Yadwad said...

Not wanting to write again..Kushagra..? Go on.. write again.

Kushagra Mittal said...

Arun Sir..saw this comment only today. Ya, should write more..will do so surely soon.